Imagine you’re five years old and being treated to dessert at an ice cream parlor. As you saddle (or are scooped) up to the counter, you’re met with a bowl of spaghetti and tomato sauce. The tears flow like a flash flood. Before spaghettieis—an ice-cream replica of Italy’s national dish—became a ubiquitous German treat, it did make children cry.
Dario Fontanella is the man responsible for the tears, and the grins that followed. His father moved to Mannheim, Germany, from…
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